From the Ruins of - Ajanta Caves

The array of caves of Ajanta

2000 years ago, monks from all over Indian subcontinent, came together in the heart of the Deccan, in search of the eternal truth, peace and salvation, while creating around thirty caves that would immortalize them. On a rocky face of a horseshoe-bent gorge of Waaghur river, these monks managed to create a timeless masterpiece that was really just a product of their devotion and love for Buddha. From around 2nd century BCE to about 7^th century AD, they chiseled and etched these caves, creating frescos and sculptures that are a testament of art and cultural flare of the bygone era. These caves are none other than the world famous, UNESCO heritage site, Ajanta Caves.

When you enter Ajanta, and see the exteriors, you hardly know what is in store for you inside the ruins of this once flourishing monastery.

Ajanta was believed to have been lost and covered by forest growth till early 17^th century, when accidentally discovered the caves during a hunting trip, when a British Officer, John Smith noticed cave 10 from the overlooking hill top. But historical records prove that Ajanta was never lost in time, just kept a secret by the locals, during later Mughal period, to save it from the wrath of Aurangzeb. Regardless of what happened in the past, we are lucky to have the chance to witness this marvelous piece of art even now!

The Chaitya ghar in Cave 9 is one of the few remnants of a simpler Hinayana Era. Though you can still see by looking up to the ceiling, that the cave might have been painted with simpler themes even back then.

Ajanta caves though believed to be a part of the network of caves from Konkan to Nalanda, they are believed to be predominantly from the Mahayana phase of Buddhism, since almost all the caves depict Buddha as a god. Hinayana sect considered Bhuddha only as a preacher of truth and meditated around a non-engraved stupa. While Mahayana sect considered Buddha to be an incarnation of God and believed in Bodhiastavas. 

One of the many Buddha Shrines in the Mahayana Viharas of Ajanta. You can see Buddha preaching here, while animals deers and 5 monks listening to him - recreating his first sermon at Saranath

It was during the Mahayana phase that paintings and sculptures of Bhuddha and Bodhiastavas became part of Monasteries and so Ajanta became what it is today. Some caves of Ajanta were built during late Hinayana phase, but they too were modified during the Mahayana phase with stunning murals. The only caves that still have their original Hinayana structure are cave 9 10 and a couple more (that I don’t remember the number of right now).

Another one of the shrines, where even though the pose of Buddha and the setting is similar, you can see that the craftsmanship is more polished and the door and pillars are more elaborate, suggesting this Vihara was made in a later period.  

Most of the caves of Ajanta are vihara halls and have a rock carved statue of Buddha at the rear of the cave in a smaller shrine. These viharas are pillared on all the other sides and have monk cells attached to them. But the most interesting and mesmerizing part of these Viharas are the murals on their walls and ceiling. 

Painting of the Jataka Tales - King's white elephants on the wall of Cave 17

From stories out of Jataka Tales, to pages from Buddha’s life; from paintings telling you about people and their daily lives in those days, to paintings providing you insight into the royal agendas of the time, these murals are so detailed and priceless!

Behind the pillars, before entering the monk quarters, you can see the walls are splashed with colours, stories and history!

If I were to give you a breakdown of all the caves with their respective murals, this post would become a book in itself and I would still not be able to do justice to the wonders of Ajanta. But I am going take you around enough to let you know why ruins of Ajanta are magical.

Painting of Vajrapani Bodhiastava, who in Mahayana mythology is known to be Buddha's guide and power. (Cave 1)

The center of most painted ceiling show an ornamental chandelier sort of structure, which has a 3d effect if you look at it from directly underneath. I tried to get that effect in this picture, but not sure if you can actually get the sense.

I forgot to note which cave this painting was from, but what really stands out in this paintings and some paintings around it is the shine of the white paint that was used for the pearls. The photos don't do justice to it, but be sure to glance around when you visit Ajanta!

The ultramarine flowers in Ajanta are also considered very unique because the blue colour, still very prominent, was rarely used and it was hard to get from mineral and organic sources.

A lot of paintings of Ajanta also give you an idea of India's foreign relations of that era. For instance, in this ceiling painting you can see a group of Persian people talking to their leader.

This painting is perhaps the most famous painting of Ajanta. This is the Bodhiastava of compassion - Padmapani and the painting is known mostly for the facial expression!

This painting is of another Jataka Tale where Mahajanaka, the king renounces his throne and worldly pleasured to become a monk.

Paitings showing different stages of Buddha's early life!

Apart from viharas, and early phase or Satvahana Chaiyas, Ajanta also is house to some of the most elaborate Chaitya caves of the world. The stupas of cave 19 and 26 have Bhuddha in different postures around it with a hooded snake canopy (similar to Hindu God Vishnu, proving that Mahayana Buddhists believed Bhuddha was an incarnation of God).

The artistic stupa of cave 19

Cave 19 has an elaborate entrance with Nagas are guards to the cave, ridged ceiling, intricately carved stupa and pillars and frescoed walls. The reason this cave is considered very special is because it is believed to be the cave where monks of Ajanta started carving the stupas. Also, because this cave had similarities with other Buddhist caves of the area (Karla and Kondana Caves).

Ridged ceiling and ornate pillars of Cave 19

Apart from cave 19, cave 26 is considered pretty important too because it is the most distinctive cave in the complex after cave 1 and 2. While all the other caves in the complex are known for their paintings, cave 26 does not have any paintings. Instead it is known for its sculptures that tell you different stories from the life of Buddha. 

Pages out of Buddha's life adorn the walls of cave 26

This cave has the largest Mahaparinirvana Buddha (reclining Buddha) of India and the stupa supposedly has 36 Buddhas carved on it (highest number of any ancient stupa).

The Mahaparinirvana Buddha

The entrance of Cave 26 too is a site in itself. The day I was visiting the cave, there was an ASI (Archeological Society of India) official with some Sri Lankan delegates who visiting the caves and he mentioned that the cave apparently was planned to be even more elaborate and ambitious, but because the sculptures and inscriptions of this cave relied heavily on local donors, its original plan just didn’t pan out which is why there are multiple blank spaces in the wall.

Entrance of cave 26

Also, this cave had many more wall reliefs but over time they were heavily damaged and ASI is trying to restore as much as it can, still. Regardless this cave is probably the most well-preserved cave of Ajanta. Maybe it is because this cave does not have paintings, which seem to have been marred by Nature over time or maybe it is in such a good condition because it was one of the last caves to be excavated in the complex; who know!

This elaborate sculpture of cave 26 depicts temptations Buddha had to overcome during his penance, seduction of Mara and the daughters of Mara are carved around Buddha. 

Talking about damager and conservation, Ajanta’s frescos have endured and passed the test of time, but not without considerable damage. Owing to paint’s inherent fragility and the site’s negligence over time, the damage to the murals is evident in every corner of Ajanta. Yes, the Persian blue still shines, the pearls on people still glitter, the rosy smile of princesses and apsaras still beam but they are fading and getting chipped away with every blow of nature and human interaction. The damage sure is irrevocable, and god only knows how long these timeless paintings would hang on to the walls of these caves.

One of the many fresco's being recreated and forged in Ajanta campus currently.

As a silver lining, many institutions, museums, and world famous artists are trying to copy the paintings of Ajanta and have managed to forge many, (you can see some in progress at the campus), so even if time takes its toll on the caves, future generations might still get to see what Ajanta stood for. But I really wish we manage to preserve what is left in the ruining of these caves, so that the excellent craftsmanship of all those involved in making Ajanta over hundreds of years, is genuinely immortalized. Just finger crossed.

Ajanta is poetry, Ajanta is history, Ajanta is faith. See it the way you want!

How to Get to Ajanta Caves:

Aurangabad Airport is the closest airport and Aurangabad station is the closest inter-state railway station to Ajanta Caves. You will have to take a car to the caves or take a bus/bus tour to Ajanta. Ajanta Caves are about 8 hours away from Mumbai via road, so you can also plan a road trip to the caves and nearby areas.

Just another entrance...

Some Important Tips:

-   Wear super comfortable shoes and bring a lot of water, it easily takes 2-3 hours to cover the caves and there is a lot of walking involved. There are a lot of water stands throughout the trail, but it is all cold water. If that works for you, you don’t need to worry about water!

-     Arrive as early in the day as you can, especially during monsoon when the place gets super crowded. I would suggest visiting during winters though, weather is just perfect!

-     Visiting hours of the caves is 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM

Not all the cave exteriors are elaborate. But the ones that are, are brilliant!

-     The visit is ticketed, and they have a separate bus that take your to the caves from the parking lot. They do accept credit card, but I would still suggest carrying cash. They have different tickets for Indian national, SAARC Nationals and others and also separate tickets for cars and cameras so remember to carry your identity proof. Indians and SAARC nationals’ entry fee is INR 30 while that for others is INR 500. Children below 15 years of age can enter for free.

-     There are a lot of guides available on site and I would highly recommend hiring one. There is just so much to know and explore in the caves that you would not know of if not for a local guide. Guides’ rates range from 500 INR to 2000 INR depending on how many hours you need them for and number of people in your group.

Buddhas on the wall of cave 7

-     There is a pretty decent restaurant in the vicinity, run by MTDC and it is also the closest washroom to the area.

-      Lastly, Ajanta and Ellora are different caves and not very close by, so I would suggest doing them on separate days. Combine Ajanta with Upper View Point of Ajanta Cave, and Baitulwadi Qila.

Another Buddha shrine, but notice Buddha has a different posture here.

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