From the Ruins of - Kanheri Caves

Welcome to Kanheri Caves in Mumbai

Three weeks ago, I met a traveler from USA, who had been to India twice and was planning to visit again during Diwali this year. We got talking about historical places in India and where all he could visit. He suddenly he commented – “Mumbai is just another metro with cafes and party places. Wish there was something historically significant or just interesting in or around Mumbai apart from Fort”. (He was landing in Mumbai and staying there for two days.) I informed him about Elephanta, Karla and Kanheri caves, Rajmachi Fort, Gilbert hill (volcanic basalt monolith hill), Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Global Vipasana Pagoda (a replica of Myanmar’s Shwedagon Pagoda), Sulphur hot springs of Vajreshwari and Fort Vasai (Bassein – where Coldplay shot Hymn for the Weekend). He was seriously flabbergasted!

Perhaps the historical sites of Mumbai are not very appreciated.

This got me wondering, a lot of my friends and colleagues in Mumbai also didn’t know of many of these places or their significance. In fact, even I didn’t know about most of the places for the longest time – not even about how significant Kanheri Caves were, which I visited very frequently with my family since it was just 20 minutes away from my place. Hence, for this months ‘From the ruins of ‘ post, I am going to take you to the 1st century BC cave complex now known as Kanheri Caves of Mumbai.

In the heart of Sanjay Gandhi National Park

Nestled in the heart of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Borivali, Mumbai – Kanheri Caves complex flaunts around hundred Buddhist caves with the oldest ones built around 1st century BC to caves built around 10th century AD. According to inscription found in the caves, the area was part of a prospering network of Buddhist Viharas and Chaityas of ancient Maharashtra and these set of caves were known as Krishnagiri. Remnants of the other caves of the area during the same era can still be found in Mumbai around Andheri and Karjat – Marol, Mahakali, Jogeshwari and Karla, with Karla being the next most prominent one. (Elephanta and Mandapeshwar caves are Hindu caves dedicated to Shiva)

When you get greeted by cave 1 on a rainy morning.

Unlike the UNESCO heritage sites like Ajanta Ellora and Elephanta, the caves of Kanheri are not very ornate or intricate in their design. But the fact that they are one of the oldest Buddhist caves of the subcontinent that they were not made or funded by any major kingdom but instead mostly were funded merchants and businessmen hailing from nearby trade centers. Hence, the inscriptions of the caves mostly are like new of that era or talk about generous commoners which makes it special in its own way.

Simple stupa and Bodh Litany at the corner of Cave 2

When you get to the caves, you are greeted by rock-cut stairs, that lead you to the first two caves of the hundred in the complex. Cave 2 is a long, seemingly simple and unimpressive cave with two simple stupas surrounded by multiple small Bodhiastava sculptures in the corner and some inscriptions on its ceiling. Cave 1 on the other hand, is a two storied Vihara with a very simple pillars and quarters with beds carved out of the hill itself. Cave 3 however, is significantly different from the first two.

The Great Chaitya

Cave 3, called the Great Chaitya, is more ornate than the previous two, with a distinct designed ceiling, pillars with motifs elephant and cows, a huge stupa in the middle of a huge pillared hall, and a porch with two life size stone statues of Avalokiteshwara Buddha. The front facade of this cave also has a number of human figurines and inscriptions that tell you about the era and ruler of the area when this Chaitya was built.

Inside the hall of the Great Chaitya

You would many such caves in the complex that just serve as a new paper of the ancient times.

Anyways, when you walk around the caves, you would notice multiple small caves, that presumably served as individual quarters for students and travelers visiting Krishnagiri and are similar to quarters of cave 1. The larger caves however tell you when they were built or modified, just by their appearance. It is believed that the caves consisting of a simple porch with stone benches and a hall will a simple small stupa where actually built during the time when Hinayana Buddhism was the stronger sect aka the early days of Buddhism. When Mahayana teachers took over the place, some of the halls were modified with more ornate plinths, stupas, and statues of Bodhiastavas, just like cave 3.

Avalokiteshwara Buddha of the Great Chaitya

Going up the hill, you would cross multiple similar Chaityas and Viharas, a big cave called the Durbaar Hall, another cave with two stone tables which probably served as a study hall or dining hall, and finally get to Cave 90 which perhaps is the most striking cave after cave 3.

Sculptures on the wall of Cave 90

While most of the halls without a stupa do not have any carvings (except few that have inscriptions), cave 90 is etched with repeated figurine of Buddha in Padmasan with different hand gestures between two hooded snakes and surrounded by statues of Bodhis. This pattern covers almost all the walls of the cave, with a few patches that seem incomplete. Though there is no information outside the cave to explain the purpose of this cave, I believe this might have been a medication and practice place for monks who also learnt carving and who were to go preach about the religion elsewhere. Maybe a totally naïve guess, but who knows.

Sculptures of  Buddha, Bodhis and Donors of the Great Chaitya

Other caves of the complex are not remarkable, and you would think there isn’t anything interesting about this place in general. But what really stands out about Kanheri is its water management system! While cave hopping, it is hard to miss the small pipe like structure etched in stone around every cave, sort of connecting the caves. In some places you would also see a similar channel inside the caves and a slight discoloration of rock in the patch of these channels. While moving from one cave to the other, in some places, you would see small boxes between these channels too and see the channels moving away from the rock-cut stairs. 

Some of the water cisterns! Notice the small pipe-inlet to the square water tank and the niche that ensured the water is not contaminated.

Also, right next to cave 3 you would have noticed two big and very prominent water tanks, if you paid attention throughout your exploration, you would notice similar tanks in a niche next to almost all the major caves and groups of smaller caves. Believe it or not, these tanks were used for rain water harvesting back in the days. The pipes basically were used to get the overflowed water from one water cistern to the other. The squares were filled with material like sand or cotton to filter the water and the reason the pipes lead the water channel away from the stairs were to keep the stairs from getting wet and slippery and to keep the water from getting contaminated.

Remember I told you about cave 2 before? This is what it looks like from the outside.

Having visited the place so many times before, I had always seen the pipes and some of the water tanks but never really paid much heed to it. Four years back, a show called ‘Sanrachna’ of Epic Channel (local to India) discussed the water management system of Kanheri, and when I visited the caves next, I had a new found respect for this underappreciated gem of Mumbai!

Many smaller caves with Stupas were just meant for solo meditation perhaps.

How to Get to Kanheri Caves:

Mumbai International Airport is the closest airport to Kanheri and Borivali Station is the closest local (western line Mumbai local) and inter-state railway station to Kanheri. You can take a car or rickshaw to the caves or rent a bike from the Borivali East entrance of Sanjay Gandhi National Park. There are also busses from the same entrance that go to the caves, but their frequency is very bad, and I would not suggest relying on them. You can also walk or jog the 7km (4.5 miles) trail to the caves on a good, not so humid morning.

Pillars of cave 3 with elephant and cow motifs and holders in the wall which perhaps were used to tie Drapes or put candles (diyas). Again this is just a guess by me.

Some Important Tips:

Bring a lot of water and arrive as early in the day as you can, especially during monsoon when the place gets super crowded. 

-  Unfortunately, there are no washrooms or food places close to Kanheri Caves (atleast there weren’t when I visited the place the last time)

-        Visiting hours of the caves is 7:00 AM - 5:30 PM

-        You have to climb small rock-cut stairs right from the start to explore the complex so wear comfortable shoes.

-     The visit is ticketed and last time I went there they did not accept credit card, so carry cash! They have different tickets for Indian national, SAARC Nationals and others and also separate tickets for cars and cameras so remember to carry your identity proof.

-     Also, there are no guides available at the site, so read up and research before you visit Kanheri Caves and Sanjay Gandhi National Park.

-      Lastly, you can combine your visit to Kanheri with a visit to the Global Vipasana Pagoda, which is just an hour away.

It is good to explore your local city or town once in a while, who knows some interesting piece of history might be hiding itself right there!

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