From the ruins of – Sun Temple, Modhera

Welcome to the Sun Temple of Modhera

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When people mention India and Sun Temple, everyone defaults to Konark – one of the first cultural UNESCO world heritage sites of India, whose preservation started way back in the 19^th century. But did you know India has about seven Sun Temples that were built across the country between 10^th century to 13^th century AD! Out of the seven, the most prominent one after Konark is probably the Sun Temple of Modhera, Gujarat.

Poetry of Pillars

About two hours away from Ahmedabad, there lies a forgotten temple of the sun god that was once built perhaps to commemorate the bravery of a ruling dynasty or just out of gratitude to the primary deity of the dynasty, but now is a site of marvel for those who tread on the path that leads to Modhera. Built in around early 11^th century by the Bhimdeva I of the Solanki dynasty, this temple is actually older than the Konark Temple but equally fascinating.

Standing tall since 11th century A.D.

After crossing an array of farmlands and small settlements on the banks of river Puspavati, when you finally get to the Sun Temple, at the first glance it just looks like a modest page of history on the verge of getting lost. But as you inch closure, the step-well captivates your attention and takes you back in time.

No photo can actually do justice to this step well - massive, symmetrical and beautiful even with what remains.

Suryakund, locally also known as Ramakund, with its 108, mostly ornate shrines leave you admiring the skills of the craftsmen who managed to conjure this piece wonder in the 11^th century. Ganesha with Laxmi, Vishnu on Sheshanag, Shiva in the Pashupati and Natraj avatar, Shitala Ma destroying ghouls, Rama Krishna and so many other deities still occupy their original temple in the 108 shrines around the Suryakund and are still worshipped! But there are some ruined and empty shrines too that make you wander, what happened here.

Some of many deities who have their shrines around Surya Kund.

That thought knocks you out of a trance that the geometry of the steps might have put you in, and the Sabha Mandap beckons you with some birds flying over it. Sabha Mandap is probably the most striking structure out of the three major structures in the complex as it is solely supported by pillars! Sabha Mandap, the dancing and assembly hall stands between the sanctum sanctorum, called the Gudha Mandap, and the Suryakund but welcomes visitors from every direction.

So you notice the rectangular holes in the pillars? It is believed that they were built to keep Diyas that would light up the place! Also, there are gaps on some of the pillars that were probably built for torches! (Source - A guide in the campus.)

Supported by 52 intricately carved pillars, the Sabha Mandap is a testament of the Solanki craftsmanship. The pillars all similar yet so different, connected with alternating triangular and circular arches seem to be in perfect harmony while reciting a silent poem of the bygone era. Today, the musicians and dancers no longer grace the floor of the Sabha Mandap, but the sculptures of musicians and dancers on the pillars still make sure their song in not lost to time!

Intricate floral work on the ceiling of the Sabha Mandap. If you have been to Dilwara Temples, you will be able to draw some comparisons here! Also, can you see the central lotus? 

Spend a moment in there, dance and twirl if you can and admire the central ceiling chandelier, floral and exquisite. Feel one with the art and cultural vibe of the place. Pause and soak in the historical wealth of India and move on to explore another part of this beautiful structure.

A gate to the present or the past? 

The exterior of Sabha Mandap might seem a bit overwhelming after seeing the interiors, but in a step of two you will come face to face with the Gudha Mandap and be lost in epics of Indian Mythology. 

All that remains of this beautiful temple.

The exterior of the Gudha Mandap is etched with chapters from Ramayana and Mahabharata, and some lessons of life and death. There is also a distinct deity that repeats with a slightly different facial expression alternating around the Gudha Mandap. I heard a guide say, they are all visages of Surya on his 7-horsed chariot greeting the different months of the year with lotuses in his hands.

Sun God welcoming some month of the year...

But going around the Gudha mandap, you see the level of damage the place had endured possibly during the Khilji era, when Alauddin Khilji went on a rampage to destroy Hindu temples around the country. No one can be certain about what happened back in time, but whatever it was, it surely was looted and damaged extensively, causing people to abandon it. The interior of the Gudha Mandap is dark and occupied by a horde of bats.

Wish we could also see what the temple looks like from the inside, because the exterior was extremely beautiful!

The squeaks of the bats and the overwhelming stench makes it impossible to even peer inside the structure, and thus I can’t really tell you if there is anything worth observing there. But it is said that the temple door was constructed in a way so that the first sun rays would fall directly on the idol placed in the sanctum sanctorum.

Pitch black home of the bats; no more idol, no more worship...

Unfortunately, the idol is long gone and all that remains is the dark altar. Right outside the Gudha Mandap are two pillars, which are what remains of the Kirti Torana. Despite the damage, the stone work on the pillars of the Kirti Torana are still very well preserved! 

They sure were broken and their significance was reduced to zilch. But thanks to the Modhera Dance Festival, people notice these two pillars with the temple in their background, even when they come just for the festival! Kirti Toran - fitting name? 

Also, if you are heading to Modhera for the Modhera Dance Festival, there is a small stage in front of these very pillars where all the magic comes to life! Which brings me to some important things you should know before visiting Modhera!

The campus might not be that big, but it sure steals your heart.

How to Get to Modhera:

Ahmedabad is the closest airport and major railway station to Modhera Sun Temple and the most convenient way to get to the temple is to hire a cab from the city. You can also take a train till Mehsana which is 1.5 hours away from the temple, but the frequency for these trains is bad.

The tiny, new, functional temple that is the only functional temple in the campus.

Some Important Tips:

-    Carry a lot of water because the place does get hot and dry in almost every season, and also a hat or cap.

-    For food and washrooms, the only decent option in the vicinity is Toran Cafeteria. (Contact Number: +91 2734 284334)

-        Visiting hours for the temple are from 6am to 6pm.

-   There is also a temple in the complex, near the Gudha Mandap, which is still functional. If the priest is free, you can have some really interesting conversations with him (he told me a lot about Solanki Dynasty).

Best remains of the Solanki Dynasty.

Some more facts about the place:

-      Every year, mostly during the weekend after Uttarayan (this year from January 19^th to January 21^st), the temple campus is the site of the Uttarardh Mahotsav, famously called the Modhera Dance Festival. I haven’t attend it till date but given how beautiful and magical Konark Dance Festival was, I feel this too would be an amazing experience. And since it happens around the time of Rann Mohatsav, it would be a no-brainer addition to the perfect cultural itinerary for Gujarat.

-   In 2014, this Modhera Sun Temple was added to the list of considerations for UNESCO World Heritage Sites and it is currently under the supervision of Archaeological Survey of India.

-  You can combine exploring Rani Ni Vav (another UNESCO Site) and Adalaj Stepwell tour with your trip to Modhera from Ahmedabad.

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