Ancient Temple of Magic and Energy in Odisha - Chausathi Yogini Temple
Chausathi Yogini Temple, Hirapur |
Magic.
It has been a part of many cultures since ages. Of course in today’s time most
of us do not believe in magic, but it still fascinates us right? In India, the
earliest form of magic has its roots in Athava veda, but eventually magic or
beliefs of magic grew in folklore with tantra vidya and black magic. While
black magic is not really considered to be sacred in any form, tantra vidya was
related to devis (Hindu Goddesses) had
temples and sacred sites where believers supposedly practiced magic. With time
maybe tantra vidya is gone
completely, or maybe it is still practiced secretly by some people but majority
of the temples have vanished with a very few exceptions. Of all the tantric
temples the temples with all sixty-four devis (chausathi yogini) were even fewer and today we just know of four –
two in Odisha and two in Madhya Pradesh.
The central altar |
Last
month visited one of them in Hirapur, Odisha which is just 5 kilometres away
from Bhubaneshwar. Built somewhere around 9th century during Bramha
Dynasty, Chausathi Yogini Temple of Hirapur is believed to be the most preserved
yogini temples of India where locals still offer prayers to Goddess Durga. Due
to the hypaethral structure of the temple it is believed that nature’s energies
and elements were prayed to at this temple and feminine energy was worshiped
too according to primordial texts, making this a pagan temple as well.
Devi Statues with their Vahanas |
This
circular limestone temple has 56 graphite devi idols cascaded in
wall cavities inside the temple and 8 devis idols on the 4 sides of the central
altar. All the devis are depicted with their vahanas and represent different shades of human life and feminine
energy like birth, death, joy, anger, control, power etc. The central altar,
though is empty as of today, it is believed that in the olden days a statue of
Maha Bhairava was worshiped there, who represented Goddess Shakti (The ultimate
power). The inner chakra of 8 devis is believed to represent sankoka or concentration of cosmic
energy while the 64 on the other circle represent vikas or expansion of the world.
The temple in form of Shiv Ling |
The
architecture of the temple without the idols is also turned out to be equally
interesting. An old man in the premises of the temple (probably the pandit) told me that the temple
is actually a huge Shiva Lingam which was meant for worshiping the feminine
energy of Ardhanareshwar (Half Man
Half Woman avatar of Shiva). Later when I thought of what he said, it did make
sense. The central altar was the lingam and the circular structure was the supporting
kund. Also there was a small pond nearby,
a water body which is very common around shiv temples. And after all, the shiv
ling is just a representation of cosmic energy! Do you see the parallelism like
I did?
The small village pond closeby |
To know
that so much thought went into creating these temples and just four of them
have survived the test of time was kind of sad. The Chausathi Yogini temples,
although, are one of the rarest of ancient sites of Indian History, all of them
are pretty offbeat and not known to many. This temple in particular was pretty
much lost in time and known only to locals till about 10 years back. In 2006,
an Odishi Dancer named Pratibha Panda started a dance festival in the temple
premises. After the festival was formally recognized by Odisha Government in
2010, the temple came into limelight and made its way to Odisha tourist maps.
Though still offbeat and less known, the place now does see a lot of visitors
from 23rd-25th of December every year – when the dance festival
is held. So in case you are planning to travel to Odisha in December, you know
of a place you might want to visit.
Prayers are offered to the pond too! |
One of the very few completely intact statues |
P.S.
How to
get there –
You can
ask any auto or taxi to drop you at Hirapur Yogini Temple. It is 5 KM from Raja
Rani Temple and a trip there can be combined with a visit to Dhauligiri or Old
Bhubaneshwar. You would need maximum half an hour to explore the site. It is
not advisable to go to that area post 6:00 PM.
Other
Chausathi Yogini Temples.
1. Ranipur-Jharial in Balangir district, Odisha
2. Western group of temples in Khajuraho in Chhatarpur
District, Madhya Pradesh
3. Chaunsath Yogini Mandir in Bhedaghat in Jabalpur
district, Madhya Pradesh
A Lovely temple indeed.. your captures do justice to it. Will make sure to visit while I'm there next time
ReplyDeletexoxo - C
Style.. A Pastiche! Styleapastiche.com
Thanks Chaicy...Glad you liked the post and the pics :D And do visit, I am sure you will love it :)
DeleteBeautiful temple.
ReplyDelete:)
DeleteThanks for the nice informative blogpost on these particular temples . Liked the post
ReplyDeleteThanks Ani :)
DeleteGood to know about this place, will visit Puri very soon and this time i am not going to miss this place. Thanks a lot for sharing. Its really very good to go through this post.
ReplyDeleteDo visit Chausathi Yogini the day you cover Bhubaneshwar :D
DeleteThanks for the comment and glad you like the post. :)
Beautiful post and pics.
ReplyDeleteThanks Rupam :)
DeleteNice post,very informative
ReplyDeleteThank you so much Ani :)
DeleteLovely temple!!!
ReplyDeleteIt indeed is :)
DeleteSo fabulously narrated! I had never heard of this temple. India has so much hidden in nooks and corners! Thanks for sharing Vish :) Love the pictures!
ReplyDeleteThanks Divsi. Glad you liked the post. And so true..India has so much to see and explore that we might need a whole lifetime to explore it completely :)
DeleteVery beautiful..
ReplyDelete:)
DeleteA wonderful post!! A great collection of pictures are enough to capture the beauty of temple.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much Sweta :)
DeleteLooks magical
ReplyDeletei am enjoying your blog so much, because it's like a travel book. Thank you for the lt of information.
ReplyDelete