From the Ruins of – Mandu

From the Ruins of Mandu. Today Mandu is a quiet, almost forgotten fort with dilapidated structures but since around the 6th century A.D., this place has seen ups and downs of such magnitude that it would make you gasp in wonder. #Mandu #MadhyaPradesh #India #History #Architecture
The ruins of Mandu and the story of its Afghani Architecture.

Psst! There are affiliate links in this post. If you click on those links, I may get a small commission at absolutely no cost to you. And don't worry, the links are all safe!
About a 100 km away from Indore, in the heart of Dhar district lie the ruins of Mandu! From being the capital of multiple dynasties, to being a modest reminder of its glorious past – ancient city of Mandu has so many stories to tell that I literally struggled to flesh them all out for this month’s ‘From the Ruins of’ post. Today Mandu is a quiet, almost forgotten fort with dilapidated structures but since around the 6th century A.D., this place has seen ups and downs of such magnitude that it would make you gasp in wonder, and question why it all ended.


Roads of Dhar, leading to some ancient era.

Crossing the semi-arid plains of Dhar, you barely anticipate a drastic change in landscape. And just when you start admiring the rugged parched hills of Malwa, the hills greet you with a number of gates or Darwazas, all part of the historic Mandu Fort. Soon after you enter the fort, you see dilapidated houses and gate posts, all telling you of a bygone era with Islamic roots. But the ruins also tell you that this ancient town has seen destruction and desolation more than once.

The massive Darwazas welcoming you to Mandu

Even though ancient records mention Mandu as a prospering city since the 6th century, it apparently became a prominent city as the capital of the Paramara Dynasty in the 10th and 11th century. Its fame attracted a lot of attention during the Delhi Sultanate rule, and after years of attacks, when Allaudin Khilji finally annexed Malwa, Parmaras were overthrown Mandu became a part of the Sultanate. The Parmara foundation of the city was almost destroyed and replaced with a fort housing numerous structures of Afghani architecture. After, Khilji dynasty’s fall, Dilawar Khan declared his suba – Malwa a free kingdom and built Mandu again as his capital.

Gada Shah sure knew how to make an impression?

By the time you try and imagine what the place might have been during the Parmara period, you come face to face with a huge, structure that looks bigger and different from the structures you have seen so far; you come face to face with Gada Shah’s house and shop. Gada Shah is believed to be a Rajput nobleman-merchant who used this structure as his house, trading station and also general meeting place for public. Due to being owned by a Rajput in an Islamic territory, this building has features of both architectural styles – no domes, but hanging arches, open courtyard with a central podium, etc.

You could shop in here back in the days!

Right opposite Gadaa’s Shop and House are two step wells Andheri (dark) Baodi and Ujala (illuminated) Baodi. And while you are searching for steps to lead you to the actual well of Andheri Baori, you would get a view of a long narrow building. This is probably the most famous and the most interesting palace of Mandu – Jahaz Mahal.

The beautiful Jahaz Mahal aka Ship Palace

With that thought, enter the Royal Complex of Mandu Fort, and stare at Jahaz Mahal long enough to observe that it really looks like a ship stuck between two ponds. Before you start admiring the brilliance of Jahaz Mahal, you should know that Mandu was built at an elevation of 2000 ft from ground and far away from River Narmada’s belt. Also, till date no one has found any aquifer in this section of Vindhya’s which means people of Mandu, only had the four monsoon months to rely on for their water needs. And they did a brilliant job at harvesting rain water in the numerous Baodis and around forty manmade ponds in the fort – such as the ones fencing Jahaz Mahal (Munj and Kapur Talao).

Inlets and outlets of water in Jahaz Mahal's swimming pools.

Jahaz Mahal, apart from its visage as a ship on land, might not seem that fascinating with its two floors of pillared halls, floral windows and terrace. But look closer, you will see two massive swimming pools on the top and the ground floor of the palace. Right next to these pools, you will see spiral ridges, seemingly ending at the walls. Look even closer, you will notice they don’t end there, but continue through the walls, and the spirals itself have narrow slits at regular intervals. These spirals worked as pipes to the pools and were filled with sand to filter and also monitor the flow of water. The lakes below acted as reservoirs and water was sent up to the pools with simple piston-based hydraulics! The pools also have multiple strategically placed niches that allowed slow passage of water out of the pools, and back to the reservoirs when required. This water management system was mimicked in multiple structures of Mandu, but in the present state of the fort, Jahaz Mahal is your best shot at realizing the ingenuity of engineers of that era.

Gather around everyone.

While still in awe of Jahaz Mahal, make your way to Hindola Mahal, the royal meeting hall. Hindola Mahal’s exterior looks interesting with sloping walls and intricate windows, while the interior is beautiful with its array of hanging arches. Like other major buildings, there is a step well near Hindola Mahal also, called Champa Baoli. Aparantly Champa Baori had mechanism to provide cold and hot water for bathing.

Not an incomplete pyramid, it is the Hindola Mahal

After soaking yourself in the beauty of Royal Complex, head to the heart of Mandu. As you enter this section, you will notice the influence of Pashtun architecture getting stronger and then you are in presence of the massive structure of Jami Masjid and its neighboring Hosang Shah Tomb. 

Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah Tomb complex

Jami Masjid, with its fifty-eight domed and pillared sections around an open lawn making it a one of its kind mosque of that period was built by Hosang Shah (son of Dilawar Khan). Hosang Shah’s son built Hosang Shah’s tomb, which is the only marble structure in entire Mandu, and is considered to be the inspiration behind Taj Mahal.

Pillars and pillars topped with many a dome - Jami Masjid

In front of Jami Masijid, is Ashrafi Mahal, or the little that remains of it. Ahrafi Mahal, which is believed to be the favorite palace of Jahangir and Noorjahan. Not only did Jahangir spend some of his Monsoons in Mandu, he also assigned Mandu as one of the four prime cities of Mughal Empire. Which reminds me, I never told you how Mandu came under the rule of the Mughals!

What remains of Ashrafi Mahal

During the early years of Akbar’s rule, when he was more focused on expanding his empire, he sent his foster brother, Adam Khan to invade Malwa, which was then ruled by Baz Bahadur. When Baz Bahadur was defeated, his queen Rani Roopmati committed suicide. This marked the ending the Sultanate’s rule of Mandu and it became a part of the Mughal dynasty. All that remains in Mandu from Baz Bahadur’s time are his Palace and Roopmati’s Pavilion. While Baz Bahadur’s palace is not as impressive as the other palaces of the fort, Roopmati’s Pavilion is a completely different story.

Baz Bahadur Palace

Roopmati’s Pavalion marks the end of Malwa Plateau and start of Mewar Plateau and thus this structure was a very important stretch of wall and watch tower of the fort. This pavilion is in clear line of sight of Baz Bahadur Palace and has a clear view of the Malwa-Mewar valley, which meant it gave the Sultan enough time to prepare his army. Its ground floor not only had a shallow channel of water, but also dedicated space to store ration for days, which ensured the place was never unmanned.

Roopmati Pavalion

Though Roopmati’s Pavalion, marks the end of the fort, it is not the end of your tour of Mandu. Make your way towards the Delhi Darwaza, and along the way you would see many more structures reminding you of everything you have seen so far, but one big surprise is yet to come. 

Mandu has a number of Mosques...

A Shiva temple in an Islamic structure with Urdu and Pharsi inscriptions – Nilkanth Mahadev Temple. Built by Akbar shortly after his victory over Malwa, this temple is believed to be a peace offering to the locals who, despite belonging to different religions, had always stayed in harmony in Mandu.   

...But it has temples too. Nilkanth Mahadev Temple

With the thoughts of peace and harmony, you would finally exit the fort; but Mandu would have left a permanent impression in your hearts and minds by then.

One a palace, now just a pile of stones. That is what this former capital of Malwa has been reduced to.

How to Get to Mandu and Where to Stay:
Indore is the closest international airport and railway station to Mandu, and it is about 300 km away from Bhopal. The most convenient way to get to Mandu is to hire a cab from the Indore and cover it along with Dhar and Maheshwar in a one-day trip. Also, monsoon is the best time to visit Mandu!

Sarai Kothari - just another structure in the fort.

Some Important Tips:
-   During summers, carry a cap, scarf or umbrella, a damp towel/scarf and a lot of water because the place does get hot and dry (around 40+ deg. C). There are drinking water stations at all major sites, but carry water just to be safe.  During rainy season and winters carry a good jacket, and check for weather alerts before heading there.
-   For food and washrooms, there are a handful decent options near Hoshang Shah Tomb and Jahaz Mahal. If you carry food, there are benches in the Royal Complex where you can eat.
-   Visiting hours for the temple are from 6am to 6pm.
-   Unfortunately, guides are not available everywhere, so read up and research before you visit Mandu.
-  Madhya Pradesh Tourism does have a festival in Mandu called the Malwa Ustsav, but since neither I nor anyone I know has ever attended it, I don’t really have a lot of information around it. You can check the details HERE though.

Aren't ruins beautiful and interesting?

Top post on IndiBlogger, the biggest community of Indian Bloggers


From the Ruins of Mandu. Today Mandu is a quiet, almost forgotten fort with dilapidated structures but since around the 6th century A.D., this place has seen ups and downs of such magnitude that it would make you gasp in wonder. #Mandu #MadhyaPradesh #India #History #Architecture
Liked the post? Pin It!

Comments

  1. I really dont have words to explain how i liked this post. First of captures are superb, it was very much grand and gorgeous once...anyone can guess it seeing even the present condition. Jahaz Mahal is so fascinating.
    It was really an amazing read.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much Jyotirmoy. Gld you liked the post ^_^ Jahaz Mahal indeed is fascinating!

      Delete
  2. I can easily image the splendor of the city when it was at the peak. The domed tops are beautiful. The intricate carvings in arches, windows, and floors are so lovely. The trace paintings give me a glimpse of what bright colors and designs were once painted on the walls.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. True Jennifer, one can only imagine the grandeur of the place in its peak. Atleast we get to see its remnants for now :)

      Delete
  3. Jane Dempster-SmithApril 1, 2019 at 4:04 PM

    Your photos are amazing, you have captured every beautiful angle of the architecture of this region. I am impressed with the carvings on Gada Sha's house and shop - so beautiful. You mention that it is good to visit in the Monsoon, how good are the roads during this time?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much Jane. Gada Shah's shop was so huge and mesmerizing! The roads from Indore to Mandu are pretty well kept it is all state or national highway, inside the Fort area the roads are not that great but totally manageable during monsoons. :)

      Delete
  4. These relics look incredible! I haven’t visited Madhya Pradesh yet but hope to do it soon. Thanks for sharing the information. Shall keep this place in mind while visiting Indore x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hope you get to visit MP soon. There is way too much to explore!! ^_^

      Delete
  5. I love this so much! Poking around old ruins is one of my favorite things to do when I travel. Most people don't understand why this is fun to me, but I love imagining what a place looked like when it was new and beautiful. And the ruins are still beautiful in their own way. I hope to get to visit Mandu in person one day.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That is what attracts me to ruins of old places too!!! Hope you get to visit Mandu soon :)

      Delete
  6. The ruins are absolutely gorgeous! This style of architecture has always been a favorite of mine and the details are all so well preserved at this site! Through your photos I felt like I was taking a virtual tour, walking through the beautiful arches are staring out through the intricately shaped windows :) Thanks for sharing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you liked the post and the virtual tour Aisha! :D

      Delete
  7. Thank you for virtually bringing us to this place. The ruins are beautiful, quite mysterious and if only these walls could speak, it will tells us many genuine stories and secrets. You captured them dramatically!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you liked the post and the pictures Blair :)

      Delete
  8. Wow, stunning palaces and ruins and so many of them to visit and tour. Thanks for taking us to a new place for me to learn about and enjoy all of these amazing historical attractions - fantastic tour!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you liked the post and the virtual tour Noel! :)

      Delete
  9. Mandu has just made it onto my list of places to visit when I eventually get to do a grand tour of India. I simply love exploring the old temples and palaces in remote areas such as this. The history of Mandu Fort is very interesting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you are psyched about visiting Mandu. Trust me you won't be disappointed! :)

      Delete
  10. The engineers of that era where impressive indeed. I love the arches and the manipulation of water. Being on semi-arid plains makes these dynasties rise and fall with the climate. Being able to hold water during the dry times would have been paramount.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Seriously, those engineers were geniuses!

      Delete
  11. Wow. This is an amazing place. The Roads of Dhar are beautiful and they lead to incredible architecture. There are so many picturesque spots in the Ruins of Mandu. My favorites are probably the window cutouts and the hall of arches. Ancient architecture and history intrigues me so much.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yup, Mandu and Dhar in general has a lot of intriguing spots :)

      Delete
  12. I've yet to visit India, and I'd love to see these kinds of ruins! Mandu is stunning and it's amazing you went there and it's not busy! I appreciate your tips on visiting too. I'm sure it gets so hot there, so bringing water is a must. I'll research this place if I ever get to visit India.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'd love to visit Mandu, looks like fantastic architectural design. I now have an Indian visa (usable until July), so I'm going to check to see if by any luck the Malwa Ustsav festival will be happening in the next few months. Thanks for the tip!

      Delete
    2. Lisa, Venessa - hope you get to visit India and Mandu soon! Hope my tips help you with your planning :)

      Delete
  13. I feel sad of not visiting Mandu, when i was in MHOW near Indore a couple of years back. Had heard a lot about this place from others, and it was really nice to know more about the place and virtually travel through your eyes.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. There is always a next time Arnav! Hopefully you get to visit and experience the magic of Mandu soon :)

      Delete
  14. Ruins of Mandu are full of history and they are quite interesting too. Jahaz Mahal will be my favorite place. Indeed I am already attracted to its design and that man-made ponds and swimming pool. Just Wow. Great pictures and writeup gal.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks a lot!!! Glad you liked the pictures and the post :D Jahaz Mahal is so so pretty!

      Delete
  15. You captured the story of Mandu so beautifully, both in words and pictures. I'd love to visit Jahaz Mahal and walk though history. Great article and thanks for putting forgotten Mandu back in the spotlight.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks a lot!!! Glad you liked the pictures and the post. So glad to see I could take you on a virtual historic tour of Mandu :)

      Delete
  16. Looks like a great way to spend the weekend. I love exploring ruins, so much history and architecture. Their rainwater harvesting system is impressive.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It is a great weekend getaway option from a lot of major cities of India :)

      Delete
  17. Mandu is one of my bucket-list items. I think I will try to visit in the monsoon, when the colours will be more vibrant. Interestingly there is another monument called Jahaz Mahal in Mehrauli. A lot of websites use Mandu pictures for that one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Jitadiya, you should definitely try to visit in monsoon the place looks so pretty! And yes, even I had heard of the Mehrauli one. Wonder if it has some historic connection to the one in Mandu!

      Delete
  18. I love visiting and exploring ruins. So cool seeing the water spirals I’ve never seen anything like that! I hope to see them in person some day.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Wow amazing article dear, I found what I was looking for, thanks for sharing this information

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment